TRAVEL DIARIES
Real Journeys from Around the World
Welcome to our Traveller Series, where wanderers from around the globe share their authentic travel experiences, unique perspectives, and insider recommendations.
These stories are more than just itineraries — they’re journeys and recommendations from personal experiences that capture the essence of each destination through the eyes of real adventurers - the authors of these articles.
Whether you’re seeking inspiration for your next trip or love exploring through someone else’s lens, this series is your gateway to unforgettable experiences.
Sand Dunes and Milky Ways at Lancelin Dunes
Eirik and I are travelling the world, starting with a year in Australia. We have a lot of
adventures ahead of ourselves, but we’ve already gotten a taste of what’s to come. Our
best excursion yet is the one I will talk about in this article.
We were living in Fremantle at the time. It was the weekend, and we had agreed to go
somewhere wildly different from any place we had ever been to. Given that both of us
come from Norway, going to a desert seemed like a good way to accomplish that. The
Lancelin Sand Dunes were only about two hours away, after a quick stop for food and refilling our gas canister in town, we were on our way.
Asphalt turned to sand, and before we knew it, we
were met by a large parking lot, with the majestic dunes standing tall in the background.

The area was bustling with activity; it’s a natural playground for thrill-seekers and nature lovers alike. 4x4s kicking up sand, ATVs zipping across the dunes, and adventurers carving their paths down the slopes on sandboards. You may wonder how you could join in on that fun. Whilst the sand dunes are best with a sturdy off-road capable vehicle, those without one (or those who do not want to risk getting stuck), it is possible to rent vehicles or join a tour. This can be done at Perth Quad.
Buggies, ATVs and motocrosses could be hired with various options having respective age limits of 8+, 14+ and 16+. Prices ranged from $119 to $229 AUD for two hours of riding, with cheaper options for 30 minute rides. Both companies will provide you with safety equipment and sandboards.
For those on a budget, it is possible to rent sandboards only. At just $10 AUD for one hour from the. The very creatively named companies Lancelin Sandboards Hire and Lancelin Sandboarding. Regardless of your choice of vehicle, one can join in and experience the heart-pounding thrill of gliding down the smooth, steep inclines.
Being on a budget, we decided to go for just sandboards. I found it surprising how much
vertigo the stooping sand dunes instilled me. It only added to the thrill of setting down
the inclines, gliding across the smooth sand, wind rushing through my hair.


After conquering the dunes, you may choose to cool off with a dip in the emerald waters of the nearby beach. we decided to head along the coast towards the northwestern end of the desert. We were
happy to see our Ford Ranger could handle the sand along our path.
When we found a nice place to park, we grabbed a 24-pack of water and two foldable
camping chairs, and headed off. Our bare feet dug into the warm sand as we ascended
the first dune… by the second dune, all the people previously surrounding us had
turned to a distant roaring of engines.
The winds got stronger and blew sand across our legs. As we ventured into the steep
valleys between the dunes, it blew across our faces too. I regretted forgetting my
sunglasses, wondering how many days I’d be rubbing sand out of my eyes after our
expedition. Then a rather rare occurrence befell us: I had a not-terrible idea. I grabbed
my hoodie and wrapped it around my head into a makeshift shemagh, and it did indeed
protect my eyes, at the cost of being slow-cooked inside and mild suffocation.
As we headed deeper into desolation, the desire for some kind of windbreak grew
stronger. A few bumps of rocks and shrubbery stuck out from the sand every now and
then. We tried setting up our chairs next to one of these protuberances, but they offered
little relief. We were determined to go forth.


After a while, we encountered an extra large dune, dotted with rocks and shrubs. We
began to climb up the large dune, whilst protesting against the increasingly violent winds trying their best to stop us. When we finally made it to the top of the dune, we realized we had reached the northern cliff edge of the desert. The view was breathtaking; the endless sight of the Indian Ocean on the left, and a lush green forest canopy stretching past the horizon on the right.
We stood above, on our sandy cliff, gifted with a little protective bump behind us. The
wind… it was gone. I offer no photos, because I implore you to take the journey yourself
and see this place with your own eyes. The spot was perfect, and so we set up our chairs facing out towards the expansive scenery.
We worried we might encounter some of Australia’s notorious wildlife there. In
particular, snakes and spiders. But our surroundings were rather lifeless, which is
perhaps not so surprising for a desert. Other than flies and ourselves, we only saw one
lifeform at our spot. A small, colorful bug crawled across the sand near my chair. Being
a slight arachnophobe, I immediately began counting its legs. When I realized that I was
counting its legs in order to decide whether or not to be terrified, I figured I ought to put
the mathematics aside. The lad wasn’t bothering anyone, after all.
Typically, a bug’s mere shape will be enough to give away its kind. This one was weird,
however. It didn’t quite look like a spider, nor like a beetle. I have never seen the like
before or since, and I couldn’t tell you what it was. It was a peaceful feller, trudging past
like nobody’s business, so I turned my attention elsewhere.
It was truly spectacular up there, our eyes stapled to the vista most of the time. Little
did we know, a few miles past the skyline we were marvelling at, was another desert – the Pinnacles Desert boasts limestone pillars and an excellent sunset. We later found out that our friend Theodor Hartmann was there, while we were in Lancelin.

Nobody quite knows how these strange rocks are formed, and it is possible they are half
a million years old. As our friends watched the setting sun turn these calcarenite spires
a stark orange, we watched the sand dunes turn yellow before the very same sunset.
The temperature began dropping rather quickly, so we reckoned it was time to head back.
But as we began descending from our vantage point, it became evident our footprints
had been sanded down into nothingness. We nonetheless tried to continue the journey
home, following our faint sense of direction in the disorienting desert. The sky was
rapidly flipping through the shades of various colors before the night quenched it with
its blackness. The dunes seemed steeper now; dark and looming piles of some
capricious mass, its former warmth now zapped out of it.
Once we had ascended a few dunes, we saw a tent in the distance, a lonely lantern
dangling from its ceiling. Beyond it, we saw what appeared to be a faraway light show as
powerful beams of light danced across the dunes, coming from the headlights of
buggies swirling about in the distance. A loud, dark rumbling sounded from the
pandemonium they caused in their large sand bowl. Raising our gaze just a little showed
the warmer lights of Lancelin splayed out even further off. But none of these lights held
a candle to the brilliance of the night sky. We could clearly see the Milky Way wrapping
around us. If the desert had made us small, the sky made us tiny.

As we neared the coastline, some buggies drove past us. Their rusty
chassis wobbled past with their thundering engines, the stink of gasoline and sand-slinging
tires. It sent me straight into the post-apocalyptic world of Mad Max for a fleeting moment. The nostalgia was truly epic.
And it was shortly thereafter that we cleared the top of a sand dune that hid behind it a
very a surprising delight… our car! By the grace of dumb luck, we had walked
straight at it. The ocean air greeted us with some welcome humidity as we strolled with
relief towards it. We rounded off our adventure by hanging around the car for a while,
watching the never-ending son et lumière from the cars whooshing amid the dunes, and
inspecting the occasional beetle on its evening stroll across the desert. It had been a
terrific trip.
We decided to drive back to Fremantle, though we could have easily
booked a night at any of the hotels Lancelin has to offer. Tenting in the Dunes would
have been amazing, but this would require a permit issued by the government. Anyone
who seeks to visit this wonderful place should know that the fi nes associated with
illegal camping in Australia can be very high.
So, if you are contemplating going to Perth, the Lancelin Dunes are a must-visit. With a
surreal desertscape looking like it’s straight out of a movie, tons of activities to do in the
sand, a quality beach right next to it and a nice town closeby, the Dunes can provide a
day’s worth of fun. And if you take the plunge into the vast dunes, perhaps you will find
that magical spot Eirik and I spent our afternoon? Good luck.
Meet Alve
A Nordic Adventure exploring the world.
Hello everyone, I’m Alve. I'm currently traveling the world with my best friend from high
school, Eirik. We're starting in Australia, and have plans to travel through Asia,
Europe and South America in the future. I know we have many (mis)adventures
ahead of ourselves, and I hope to capture some of them in the articles I write
for this blog.




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