TRAVEL DIARIES
Real Journeys from Around the World
Welcome to our Traveller Series, where wanderers from around the globe share their authentic travel experiences, unique perspectives, and insider recommendations.
These stories are more than just itineraries — they’re journeys and recommendations from personal experiences that capture the essence of each destination through the eyes of real adventurers - the authors of these articles.
Whether you’re seeking inspiration for your next trip or love exploring through someone else’s lens, this series is your gateway to unforgettable experiences.
Bari - An Ideal Hub for Exploring Pulia, Italy
Bari is one of the largest port cities in Italy. It is a metropolitan hot spot with a cute old town on the coast. While it is a wonderful place to be, Bari’s biggest appeal (in my opinion) might just be its international airport and proximity (via train) to some of the most enchanting smaller cities in the Apuglia region. It’s the perfect place to use as a travel hub. Book yourself an Airbnb near Old Town so you can enjoy a myriad of quaint restaurants and wine bars in the evenings and train off on exciting day trips throughout your stay.
During my stay in Bari, I did roughly one day on and one day off. In other words, I was in the city every other day and on a train to some new and exciting smaller cities on the others. This article covers five of my favorites. From the whitewashed city of Monopoli to the limestone cliffs of Polignana a Mare to the Tulli houses of Alberobello and more, you’re in for a real treat. So grab your train pass and get a day pack together. It’s time to explore.
A word to the wise before you begin your journey…Trains often stop running back to Bari before dinner time rolls around. As a single woman traveling alone, I found that getting myself back to home base (Bari) in the early evenings to clean up and head out for dinner in town felt the safest. This strategy also allowed me to keep one apartment in Bari as opposed to booking multiple stays in multiple destinations and lugging my baggage around.
Arrival in Bari
Upon landing in Bari, make your way from the airport to your place of lodging to freshen up. I booked an Airbnb apartment about a week in advance, right where Old Town meets the main drag, and it was perfect.
Once you’re settled in, take a long stroll along the Lungomare Nazario Sauro while enjoying gorgeous views of the sea. Then, take a stroll through Old Town. Here you’ll find women in alleyways making Orecchiette (the city’s famous pasta), a gorgeous cathedral, and countless shops and eateries lining winding, cobbled streets.
Once you’ve had your fill of exploring, stop into Al Pescatore for some of the best seafood you’ll ever experience. On your way home, walk along Muraglia di Bari Vecchia, the stunning stone wall surrounding Old Town. Breathe in the fresh sea air and listen up for the sounds of musicians playing in the square below.
A Day Trip to Monopoli
I had heard so much about Monopoli from friends and family during my 1-year stint living in Italy, but I had never been. So, of course, it was my first stop. A whitewashed city surrounded by turquoise water, Monopoli is heavily populated with locals enjoying their everyday lives. I could sit on the walls of the old port for hours, watching fishermen pull in their catch and groups of people, young and old, discussing the events of the day.
Monopoli is a relatively slow-paced city and a great place to simply hang your feet over the walls of the harbor and take in the local fishing scene. If you don’t get any farther than that, you’re still coming up on top.
If you’re in the mood for sightseeing, though, a wander through mazes of white stone buildings in the old town is pretty magical. Take in the historical, medieval charm, and be sure to stop at the Monopoli Cathedral. This beautiful display of Baroque architecture boasts an elegant yet imposing façade, a soaring bell tower, and colorful frescos. You’ll also want to check out the Castle of Charles V. With views of the port, this once castle-turned-prison now serves as an active conference center.
Where to eat: Grab lunch at Carlo Quinto, one of the best seaside restaurants in town. Later, indulge in an aperativo at Tuttoapposto Winebar, a lovely spot with a cozy atmosphere, yummy snacks and beverages, and a view of the port.
Polignana a Mare - A Seaside Gem
Polignana a Mare is one of the most stunning places in Apuglio. It’s actually probably one of the most stunning places I have ever been, to tell you the truth. Colorful houses climb up cliffs that jut up for the deep blue sea far below. Known for its iconic beach and ocean caves (as well as a destination for cliff divers), it’s a tiny city not to be missed.
First things first, book yourself a boat tour or rent a paddle board or kayak so that you can drift around in the clear blue water and explore some caves, gazing up at the city looming above. Out of the water, wander the cobbled streets of the Old Town. Sneak a peek at the statue of Domenico Modugno, walk through Porto Grande, and take a close look at the walls around you. You’ll find tidbits of poetry written on them all over town.
Be sure to make your way to the edges of the Old Town, where the limestone cliffs butt up against the sea, supporting homes and businesses and providing spectacular views. Finally, step down onto Cala Porto, Polignana a Mare’s iconic inlet of a beach, to soak in some sun and maybe even go for a swim.
Where to eat. If budget isn’t an issue, you have to pay a visit to Grotta Palazzese Restaurant, a unique restaurant carved into limestone caves overlooking the water. You’ll need a reservation, and the food is pricy, but the service is incredible, and the views are insane. For a more budget-friendly option, try Ristorante Antiche Mura, a restaurant built into the ancient stone of the city. The ceilings are adorned with romantic chandeliers, and the menu emphasizes simple yet elegant Apuglian cuisine.
The Trulli of Alberobello
Alberobello is a quaint little city nestled in the heel of Italy. Its unique and oft-photographed architecture (Trulli houses), cobbled streets, and rich history make it more than worth the visit. Trulli are circular buildings made from limestone slabs with pointed domes as roofs. Beautiful and somehow mysterious, they offer a glimpse into a different era.
Alberobello really is all about the Trulli, so be prepared to see a lot of them! I started my visit with a wander through Rione Monti, the oldest part of the city. It’s packed with hilly streets and alleyways that wind through countless trulli. These unique buildings are sometimes adorned with motifs and symbols that engage the imagination and superstition if you ask me. Looking to get off the beaten track? Go to the quieter Rione Aia Piccola to admire the Trulli without the hustle and bustle of the crowds. While you’re there, be sure to find a nice rooftop terrace (look for signs that read “terrazza panoramica”) to snag a view of the city from above.
Where to eat: Set in a Trulli, Ristorante Il Pinnacolo celebrates fresh ingredients and local cuisine. Ask for a table on the terrace. The view of the city’s unique architecture is delightful.
The Ancient City of Matera
When I stepped off the train in Matera, my jaw literally dropped. This breathtaking, ancient city is comprised of limestone caves and wonderful layers of architecture dating back to Paleolithic times. One of the most striking features of Matera is the limestone caves (yes, caves), where you can eat, drink, and gaze at the city and the lush ravine it looms over. Pssst, a James Bond movie was filmed here. Can you guess which one?
If you don’t plan for anything else, plan on ambling aimlessly through the cobbled, winding streets of this ancient town. Get lost and take in every aspect as you go. Consider a stop at the cave church of Santa Maria di Idris to admire the rich frescos in its crypt. You’ll also want to check out the uninhabited caves of Sasso Caveoso and the authentically furnished Casa Grato for a taste of what life would have been like way back when. Another unique feature of Matera is its network of underground cisterns. Pop into Palombaro Lungo, also known as the Water Cathedral, to experience a wonderfully complex, awe-inspiring underground maze of man-made tunnels, pillars, and arches.
Where to eat: For lunch, make a reservation at Trattoria del Caveoso and enjoy the traditional Basilicatan cuisine. Sit in the cave restaurant or out on the charming patio. Later, stop for an aperitivo at Terrazza Cavaliere to enjoy a refreshing beverage and an unbeatable view.
Trani - A Tranquil Retreat
I saved the port city of Trani for last because it might just be my favorite. This hidden gem that many tourists pass over is unmissable, in my opinion. The inhabitants pride themselves on a slower pace of living, and you can feel it in the air as you take in the gorgeous, smooth, cream-colored stone of the streets and walls that comprise the city. That pristine creamy-white strikes the most beautiful contrast with the adjacent turquoise water.
Take a stroll through the port and the Old Town as you admire the tranquility of the city. Be sure to check out Trani Cathedral, a truly breathtaking piece of Romanesque architecture perched at the edge of the harbor and made of cream-colored stone to match the rest of the city. On my visit, there was a saxophonist playing his heart out on the steps of the Cathedral. The way the music echoed across the square and over the peaceful surrounding water is cemented into my memory.
The Jewish quarter is another must. Here, you can pop your head into a couple of synagogues for a little slice of history and marvel at the unique architecture. Oh, and don’t miss the Chiesa d’Ognissanti, a medieval church where locals say knights once came to be blessed before heading off to the Crusades.
Where to eat: Osteria La Perla del Sud is an unbeatable choice for lunch and/or an aperitivo. This little restaurant sits in the harbor, overlooking the glistening ocean and the quaint boats. The staff was so friendly and accommodating. I asked a few questions about the octopus on the menu, and before I knew it, the chef was whipping up something off-menu just for me.
That’s a Wrap!
Wow! You did it. You made it through 6 glorious cities in Apuglia. You saw an ancient cave city, lots of Trulli, a city built on cliffs hanging above the sea, and more. You ate some amazing food, and you definitely got your steps in.
Spend an extra day or two in Bari if you’d like to acquaint yourself with the more metropolitan side of southern Italy and experience some seriously amazing food. Otherwise, pack your bags and head to your next adventure!
Meet Teddy Davidson
Psychologist turned Chef. Teddy Danielson has been writing about all things food and travel since 2022, but her enthusiasm for the topics extends far beyond that.
Shortly after obtaining her degree in psychology from Mills College in 2015, Teddy bought a one-way ticket to Florence, Italy, to pursue food. She attended a tiny cooking school there, and the rest was history. She launched into a career as a private chef while she nurtured her love for solo travel, flying off to a new European foodie town every chance she got and writing everything down along the way.
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